{"id":17119,"date":"2019-03-21T20:50:27","date_gmt":"2019-03-21T12:50:27","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.wtravelmagazine.com\/?p=17119"},"modified":"2020-07-01T22:57:38","modified_gmt":"2020-07-01T14:57:38","slug":"baja-california-the-land-of-contrasts","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.wtravelmagazine.com\/baja-california-the-land-of-contrasts\/","title":{"rendered":"Baja California: The Land Of Contrasts"},"content":{"rendered":"

[vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]Desolate, dry, harsh, and unforgiving are all ways to describe the nearly 1,250-kilometre long finger of land that hangs off the west coast of California. Mexico\u2019s Baja California<\/strong><\/a> is indeed rough and rugged, yet rising out of this abrasive landscape are things of ridiculous beauty and unexpected sophistication.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n

\"\"

Something about the desert-brown background really makes the colors in Baja pop, a photographer\u2019s delight at the Hotel San Crist\u00f3ba, image by Pia Riverola<\/p><\/div>\n

[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]The inhospitable desert sits in juxtaposition to life thriving despite the odds: sparkling turquoise bays full of marine life, towering brilliant green cacti, and hidden oases of palm trees. Deep dark storm clouds pour buckets of rain over otherwise barren terrain and brilliant yellow wildflowers pop up across the desert. In small towns, friendly locals lift the veil of poverty to share the songs of the mariachis and a taste of tequila. An oppressive and impassable border creates an atmosphere for a culinary revolution.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n

\"Colorful

Colorful painted signs and murals are found throughout Baja and often compliment the colorful people<\/p><\/div>\n

[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]Travelling in Baja is 100% about the journey rather than the destination. Throughout a trip to Mexico<\/strong><\/a>\u2019s northern and westernmost state, you come to expect the unexpected. Unforeseen bounty hides in what appears to be the scarcest of circumstances. From the border town of Tijuana to \u201cCabo,\u201d or the land\u2019s end, Baja\u2019s magic is waiting for the discerning traveller to come and find it.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n

\"Unknown

Unknown dirt roads can be intimidating but fruitful<\/p><\/div>\n

[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n

Tijuana: Despite the Wall, Life Flourishes<\/h3>\n

Whether you walk or drive across, For most visitors, a journey to the Northern half of Baja California begins at one of the busiest and most fortified borders in the world. The wall between America and Mexico looms larger than life despite covering an expanse of land not much wider than a f\u00fatbol field. On the Mexican side, you instantly know you\u2019re in another country by the sight of colourful hand-painted signs, the smell of street tacos, and the voices of men in cowboy hats offering unsolicited taxis.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n

\"Another

Another day in Baja ends with a fiery sunset<\/p><\/div>\n

[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]You\u2019re officially in Tijuana<\/strong><\/a>, or \u201cTJ\u201d for short, a place that has had a reputation for being a full-strength, no-holds-barred adult Disneyland ever since filling a need during prohibition. Today, Tijuana\u2019s main drag, Avenida Revoluci\u00f3n, is much safer and G-rated than in the past. Yet, the \u201cno rules\u201d attitude that has attracted so many Americans over the years lives on amongst Baja chefs and restaurateurs.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n

\"Another

Another gem at the end of a long, dusty road, image by Nick Simonite<\/p><\/div>\n

[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]Take Javier Plascencia, for example. His upscale flagship restaurant, Mision 19, arrived in TJ at a time when no one was doing fine dining in the city. He took the rule book and threw it out the window by occupying a modern office building in a part of the city away from the main tourist haunts. With avant-garde art and in-your-face yet sophisticated dishes like beef tongue with blood-sausage vinaigrette and sea urchin soup with poblano chillies, Mission 19 feels more New York than Tijuana.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n

\"Vaqueros

Vaqueros or cowboys are a big part of Baja culture, these men are making a pilgrimage in honor of the patron saint of their hometown<\/p><\/div>\n

[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]For most, Tijuana is where you come for taco stands and hole-in-the-wall joints featuring Mexican dishes like birria (spicy goat stew), carnitas, and Baja fish tacos. These days, it\u2019s not only Baja food you\u2019ll find on the street.\u00a0 TJ has become a melting pot of all the people who get stuck there in their quest for the American dream. Rules may stop them from crossing the border, but Tijuana eschews convention. That\u2019s why you\u2019re headed to Telefonica for lunch. Places like Telefonica, a gastro-park, and Plaza Fiesta, a craft beer garden, are so popular because they don\u2019t follow the rules. A Mex-inspired ramen truck saddles up next to a taco stand selling cauliflower mole. Anything goes and it all tastes amazing.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n

\"There

There is nothing like jumping into the ocean after a long day of adventuring in Baja<\/p><\/div>\n

[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n

The Valle De Guadalupe: Sophistication, Mexico Style<\/h3>\n

From Tijuana, head out west and make your way down the coast. You can make out tiny surfers in the ocean as you pass a giant statue of Jesus Christ with welcoming, outstretched arms. He seems to say, \u2018Bienvenidos a Baja,\u2019 (welcome to Baja) to all who drive by.<\/p>\n

Eventually you turn inland towards the Valle de Guadalupe, the very valley where Spanish friars made the first Mexican wine in the 18th century. In order to do Baja Ruta de Vino (wine route) properly, you should check into your hotel early and hire a driver for the day.<\/p>\n

After you\u2019ve settled into your eco-loft at Encuentro Guadalupe, gather the troops and head off for a day of wine tasting in the Valle. As far as the eye can see, the dusty terrain is punctuated by vineyards, dirt roads, and simple signage indicating that somewhere off in the distance there\u2019s wine and food. Although you\u2019re a half an hour from ocean, your driver tells you to look for boats. The best kind of boats; boats filled with wine.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n

\"There\u2019s

There\u2019s a reason the Sea of Cortez is considered one of the premier sport fishing destinations in the world, the water reaches over 25C<\/p><\/div>\n

[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]The winemaking and tasting facilities at Vena Cava are constructed entirely from repurposed fishing boats and recycled materials. Inside the cool and cavernous upturned fishing boats, you taste the region\u2019s finest wines starting with a crisp and slightly salty Sauvignon Blanc and moving through Vena Cava\u2019s collection until you taste a show-stopping, full-bodied Tempranillo.<\/p>\n

Before the warmth of the Tempranillo sets in, it\u2019s time to get moving to your next stop: Finca La Carrodilla. Once again, you bump down a long unassuming dirt road to an architecturally breathtaking winery hidden in the desert. On the rooftop terrace at Finca La Carrodilla, sweeping views of the mountains and vineyards command your attention. But you must save some focus for the wines and locally made cheese.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n

\"Cabo

Cabo surfing fun<\/p><\/div>\n

[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]Finca La Carrodilla is one of the only wineries in the Valle that uses sustainable and ecological agriculture practices. Luckily Ren\u00e9, the winery\u2019s chief entertainer, is your server. While he explains that the Syrah is 100% organic, you enjoy the cheese made at Finca la Carrodilla from the milk of the grass-fed cows who live on the property.
\n[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n

\"The

The Cabo Surf Hotel is perfectly poised between cool, sophisticated San Jose and party central in Cabo San Lucas. But the good vibes at the hotel may cause you to stay put in the pool!<\/p><\/div>\n

[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]
\nAfter a short tour of the production area where the grapes are de-stemmed, crushed into giant stainless steel tanks, and fermented without the use of electricity or machinery, you\u2019re ready for the next course: a sunset dinner at Tras Lomita. Tras Lomita is an ethereal outdoor kitchen and dining area surrounded by vineyards. To reach the restaurant, you must trod the earth between the trellised grapevines that once produced the wine served at the restaurant. At your table, you revel in the casually elegant ambience. It\u2019s easy to understand why this is a place where both Mexicans and foreigners linger over dishes like lamb taquitos with mole sauce, BBQ octopus, and raw prawns cooked in black sauce called aguachile for hours. The wine does nothing but cause you to stay longer. Briny, earthy wines pair impeccably with the seafood that has made Baja so famous.
\n[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n

\"Almejas

Almejas pata de mula literally translates to \u201cclams mule\u2019s foot,\u201d and figuratively means that these clams are so rich you feel like you\u2019ve been kicked in the chest by a mule when you eat them<\/p><\/div>\n

[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]
\nIt\u2019s been a long day when you retire to Encuentro Guadalupe. You are grateful for a comfortable bed and sweeping views of the stars in the sky.<\/p>\n

The Sea of Cortez: Where the Desert Meets the Sparkling Sea<\/h3>\n

Onward. After you\u2019ve recuperated from all the wine, it\u2019s time to fly from Tijuana to La Paz. Despite the hustle and bustle of the U.S. border, Baja is still one of the most sparsely populated states in Mexico and nowhere more so than on the coast of the Sea of Cortez. North of La Paz lies countless kilometres of empty coastline only occasionally interrupted by tiny fishing towns, a couple of gringos, or a resort. The lack of action is made up for in the water.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n

\"Norte

Norte Cheese<\/p><\/div>\n

[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]Dubbed, \u201cthe aquarium of the world\u201d by Jacques Cousteau, the biodiversity of the Sea Cortez is unparalleled. Its waters are home to no less than 30 different species of dolphins and whales, the greatest variety of these species found anywhere on planet earth. Regardless of which form of aquatic transport you chose \u00d0 paddleboard, kayak, National Geographic cruise, fishing boat or private yacht \u00d0 you will suddenly be surrounded by sea life. But the real reason you\u2019re here is to see the \u201cgentle giants\u201d of the Sea Cortez. During the winter, you can join Cabo Expeditions for a swim alongside the whale sharks who can grow over 12 meters long and weigh over 21,000 kilos.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n

\"Fish

Fish Tacos Recipe<\/p><\/div>\n

[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]After your close encounter with the life aquatic, it\u2019s time to head south towards Cabo San Lucas. It\u2019s worth taking the scenic route to Cabo to explore the coastline that meanders along from La Paz to San Jose. The salty Sea of Cortez alternates shades of aquamarine, emerald green and deep dark navy. Quaint fishing villages seem sleepy during the hot midday sun. At one beach you stop for a swim and meet a friendly fisherman selling clams that are eaten out of the shell while they are still alive. Each picturesque beach you pass has the whitest sand and most glittering blue-green water you\u2019ve ever seen until you arrive in San Jos\u00e9.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n

\"With

With beautiful grounds, excellent service, and insanely delicious food, Trans Lomita is a place to linger for hours<\/p><\/div>\n

[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n

Cabo: The Land\u2019s End<\/h3>\n

If wet t-shirt contests, boisterous Americans taking tequila shots, and an endless Spring Break atmosphere aren\u2019t your thing, you could write off the whole of Cabo as a glossy, glitzy nightmare. Yet, in true Baja style, those willing to explore are bound to find hidden gems way worth getting your rental car dusty. Beyond the dance clubs, chain restaurants, and mega resorts of Cabo San Lucas are two lesser-known towns that will easily win your heart. So don\u2019t get caught at a timeshare presentation, there\u2019s too much magic at the end of the finger to waste any time.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n

\"The

The best seat in the Valle may very well be atop the terrace at Finca La Carrodilla, especially with an organic Syrah and a cheese plate<\/p><\/div>\n

[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n

San Jos\u00e9 del Cabo: The Classy Sibling<\/h3>\n

[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n

\"If

If you find yourself making reasons not to leave, then stay. La Reina – a cocktail of mezcal, grapefruit liqueur, jalapen\u0303o, cilantro and tequila – will certainly help your decision making process by Nick Simonite<\/p><\/div>\n

[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]
\nAuthenticity, sophistication, and charm are just three of the traits San Jos\u00e9 del Cabo holds over its twin sibling, Cabo San Lucas. Start by cruising the cobblestone streets full of artisan boutiques, colourful galleries, and delectable restaurants. On Thursday evenings from November to June, it\u2019s an official pastime to check out the San Jos\u00e9 Art Walk.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text][\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]When compared to the MTV-style party-hard scene you\u2019d find on the beaches in Cabo San Lucas, San Jos\u00e9\u2019s beaches may seem like ghost towns. Retreat to the Cabo Surf Hotel, just out of town, where you can learn to surf or stand up paddle in the gentle waves at the surf spot \u201cOld Man\u2019s\u201d with the Mike Doyle Surf School. More experienced surfers or non-surfers looking for even quieter beaches should take a day trip to Shipwrecks, a desolate but beautiful beach about 40 minutes to the east of San Jos\u00e9.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n

\"Ubiquitous

Ubiquitous street tacos<\/p><\/div>\n

[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]Once sufficiently hungry from surfing or beach-combing, head to Flora Farms, a farm-to-table restaurant set amongst a verdant sanctuary of palms, tropical fruit trees, and lush farmland hidden in the outskirts of town. When you arrive, take a self-guided tour of the exquisite grounds, order a carrot margarita and get ready to chow down on one of the best meals of your life. Being in Baja, the catch of the day is always outstanding but be sure to ample some of the goods from the ranch – raised-onsite pork shoulder, chicharr\u00f3n and charcuterie boards.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n

\"A

A taco is only as good as it\u2019s toppings<\/p><\/div>\n

[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n

Todos Santos: Magic Town<\/h3>\n

On the other side of the Baja Peninsula, the Pacific Ocean crashes on the beaches near the bohemian hamlets of Todos Santos, Cerritos and Pescadero. The three tiny towns are prized by artists, surfers, farmers, locals and expats as places to escape from the hustle and bustle of Cabo. These days a paved toll road makes the journey from San Jos\u00e9 over the Sierra de La Laguna foothills a breeze but don\u2019t tell the masses.<\/p>\n

Everyone agrees there is a certain magic about Todos Santos including the Mexican government. In 2006, it designated the town as a \u201cPueblo M\u00e1gico,\u201d a title given to a select few Mexican towns because of their cultural, natural and\/or historical significance. You\u2019ll feel the town\u2019s spell as you stroll the cobblestone streets looking for handmade curiosities in the tiny shops or admiring the refurbished haciendas.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n

\"Hotel

Hotel San Cristoba Ocean King with Soaking Tub image by Nick Simonite<\/p><\/div>\n

[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]Stay at Hotel San Crist\u00f3bal, located about 15 minutes south of Todos Santos, which has captured that magic and bundled it up into an undeniably cool luxury hotel. After you check in, don your custom kimono and head to the turquoise tiled pool for a mescal margarita. Enjoy yourself and be sure to spend some time star gazing before you go to bed, early. The day starts at dawn in Baja because of the heat and you\u2019ll want to make the most of your time in this enchanting place.<\/p>\n

Getting caught up in the almost mystical magic of Baja happens quickly. The contrast of this ridiculously rough, hot, hard place with the peninsula\u2019s natural beauty and resourceful people will cause your expectations to be exceeded at every turn. Soon you\u2019ll find yourself exploring further and worrying less knowing that Baja always delivers.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n

\"Hotel

Hotel San Crist\u00f3bal yoga deck image by Nick Simonite<\/p><\/div>\n

[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n

Places to Stay<\/h3>\n

Pendry San Diego<\/strong>,<\/span>\u00a0<\/span> pendryhotels.com\/san-diego<\/em>\/ 550 J St, San Diego, CA 92101, USA. (Just 25 minutes from the border, the Pendry is a great place to stay the night before you begin your trip to Mexico.)<\/p>\n

Encuentro Guadalupe<\/strong>,<\/span> grupoencuentro.com.mx<\/em>\/ Km. 75, CarreteraTecate- Ensenada, Valle de Guadalupe, 22750 Ensenada, B.C., Mexico<\/p>\n

Hotel San Crist\u00f3bal<\/strong>,<\/span> sancristobalbaja.com<\/em>\/ Carretera Federal 19, Todos Santos, B.C.S., Mexico<\/p>\n

Cabo Surf Hotel<\/strong>,<\/span> cabosurf.com<\/em>\/\u00a0 Carr. Transpeninsular Km 28, Tourist Corridor, 23400 San Jos\u00e9 del Cabo, B.C.S., Mexico \u25fc<\/em>[\/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]Subscribe to the latest edition now by clicking here.<\/em><\/a><\/span>
\n<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\u00a9 This article was first published in Oct-Nov 2018 edition of World Travel Magazine.<\/em><\/strong><\/span>[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

[vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]Desolate, dry, harsh, and unforgiving are all ways to describe the nearly 1,250-kilometre long finger of land that hangs off the west coast of California. Mexico\u2019s Baja California is indeed rough and rugged, yet rising out of this abrasive landscape are things of ridiculous beauty and unexpected sophistication.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text] [\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]The inhospitable desert sits in juxtaposition to […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":81,"featured_media":17120,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[28],"tags":[2058,1662,1698,2031,2097,985,2185],"acf":[],"aioseo_notices":[],"amp_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.wtravelmagazine.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/17119"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.wtravelmagazine.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.wtravelmagazine.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.wtravelmagazine.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/81"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.wtravelmagazine.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=17119"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.wtravelmagazine.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/17119\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.wtravelmagazine.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/17120"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.wtravelmagazine.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=17119"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.wtravelmagazine.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=17119"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.wtravelmagazine.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=17119"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}